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How to Use a Plumbing Snake: A Step-by-Step Guide
Plunging didn’t work? Don’t panic. Sometimes a plunger just doesn’t have the “oomph” needed to move a deep-seated clog. That’s where a plumbing snake—some call it a drain auger—comes in as the heavy hitter you need. It’s basically a long, flexible steel cable that dives deep into your pipes to chew through whatever is causing the backup. It’s a total lifesaver for homeowners, saving you a costly service call for simple clogs. Let’s get into how you can safely clear clogs without making a disaster of your bathroom.
Which Snaking Tool Should You Grab?
Not all snakes are built the same. Using the wrong tool is like trying to use a hammer to turn a screw—it just won’t work and might break something. Use the comparison table below to find the right equipment for your specific drain issue. If you’re unsure if you need a simple clearing or a professional deep clean, check out the difference between drain clearing and cleaning.
| The Tool | Best Use Case | Key Feature |
|---|---|---|
| Hand Auger | Kitchen sinks, tubs, and showers | Lightweight and easy to spin by hand. |
| Closet Auger | Toilets ONLY | Has a rubber guard to protect porcelain. |
| Electric/Flat Tape Snake | Main sewer lines or laundry drains | Motorized power for long distances. |
How to Operate a Plumbing Snake Like a Pro
Put on some old clothes and grab a bucket. Trust me, you’ll need them because snaking is a messy business. If you see water bubbling up in other drains when you run the sink, stop immediately. You might have a clogged main sewer line, and that’s a job for the big guns and heavy machinery.
Step 1: Gaining Entry to the Pipe
First, you have to reach the blockage. Pop off the drain cover or pull out the stopper. For kitchen sinks, it’s often much faster to unscrew the P-trap—that U-shaped pipe under the sink. Just keep a bucket under it to catch the “gross water.” If you get lost looking at the pipes, our sink parts diagram shows you exactly what you’re looking at. This gives you a straight shot into the wall pipe.
Step 2: Feeding the Snake Cable
Start feeding the cable into the pipe by hand. Don’t use the crank yet. Keep pushing until you feel it stop—that’s either a sharp turn or the clog itself. Give it about six inches of “slack” between the tool and the drain. Now, start cranking the handle clockwise. You aren’t just pushing; you’re trying to hook the blockage. If it feels stuck, back it up an inch, spin it, and push again. You’ll know you’ve hit the spot when the resistance feels “mushy” or heavy.
Step 3: Hooking and Removing the Clog
Once you break through the resistance, don’t just keep going. You want to “hook” the hair or debris. Slowly pull the cable back out. It’s going to be nasty—expect hair, old soap scum, and maybe some solidified grease. Throw that junk in your bucket immediately. Don’t let it go back down! Run some hot water for a few minutes to wash away any leftover bits. If the drain is still slow, it could be calcium and mineral buildup narrowing your pipes. In that case, you might need a second pass or to consider hydro jetting for a deeper clean.
3 Common Drain Snaking Mistakes to Avoid
- Forcing the Cable: If you hit a hard wall, it might be a pipe junction. Forcing it can puncture a hole in an old pipe. If it doesn’t move after a few spins, stop.
- Using a Drill on a Manual Snake: It’s tempting to attach a power drill to a hand snake. Don’t do it. The speed can cause the cable to “whip,” which can break your wrist or shatter your PVC pipes.
- Forgetting to Clean Your Plumbing Tools: A wet snake left in a box will rust into a solid brick by next month. Always wipe it dry and apply a little WD-40 or oil before storing it.
Safety Rules for Using Manual and Electric Snakes
Plumbing tools can be tricky and a bit dangerous if you aren’t careful. Here’s how to stay out of the ER:
- No Chemicals: If you just poured a gallon of “liquid fire” drain cleaner down there, DO NOT use a snake. The cable will splash those chemicals back on your face and cause serious burns.
- Respect the Porcelain: Seriously, never use a sink snake in a toilet. It’ll leave ugly, permanent black scratches that you can’t scrub off. Use a closet auger; it’s made for the job.
- Hidden Leaks: If your pipes are ancient, snaking can sometimes be the “final straw” for a weak joint. If you see a new drip under the cabinet, you might need leak detection and repair.
Plumbing Snake FAQ
1. Why is my drain still slow after snaking?
You probably just poked a small hole through the mess instead of pulling it out. Sometimes the blockage is made of grease that closes back up once the snake is gone. Go back in and try to “grab” the material this time.
2. How do I stop the snake from kinking?
Don’t let too much cable stay out in the air. Keep the snake’s body as close to the drain as possible. If there’s too much loose cable between the tool and the hole, it’ll twist into a knot and can snap.
3. Can a plumbing snake break a pipe?
Yes, especially in older homes with rusted galvanized pipes. Excessive force or using a power auger incorrectly can cause punctures or crack old joints.
4. Is a toilet auger different from a sink snake?
Yes, absolutely. A toilet (closet) auger has a protective rubber sleeve to prevent scratching the porcelain surface. A regular sink snake will leave permanent black marks on your toilet.
5. When should I call a professional plumber?
If you’ve run the full length of your snake and the water still won’t go down, the blockage is too deep. At that point, you need a licensed plumber for a camera inspection.
Still stuck? Contact Lifetime Plumbing. We handle the nasty clogs so you don’t have to!
